We have been really looking forward to next leg of our
journey. Our plan was to drive thru red hot centre via Uluru from South
Australia to Queensland, which is thousands of kilometres of nothingness
(4500km according to google maps). Unique experience to Australia. Weather
forecast was promising 45c and we did a quick “don’t die air-con” dance. Looks
like we outdid ourselves on planning again. No wonder summer is low season in
these parts.
Well, Outback it definitely is, no doubt about that. But
Great? Well, if it was meant as large, than great it is. Mile after mile after
mile of nothing. Definitely not a place to have a flat tire. Hard to believe
that there is anything living here. Not that there is much, make no mistake.
Well, to be seen anyway. We were hoping for more kangaroos and it was fine to hardly
see any snakes (as a road-kill is perfectly alright). Petrol stations every few
hundred kilometres or so. With double the prices than elsewhere. But you can’t
really negotiate, can you? Mining towns as well – not that they were anything
we would have been sorry not to have ever seen. And all this in scorching heat
that we actually enjoyed after Melbourne climate. Only gem on the road was
Uluru and Kata Tjuta national park. But let’s start from the beginning.
We started in Port Lincoln after diving with The Sharks.
First few hundred kilometres till Port Augusta passed quickly. We had our minds
set on staying in a “…charming outback town” Coober Pedy. Well, according to
the guidebook anyway. Don’t really know what we expected the outback town to be
like, but not this. What do we think? We definitely want whatever the writer
was on when he was there. To say it is a sh**hole is definitely an insult to
all sh**holes we have ever been to. Desperation on level never seen yet. This
place is just forgotten, even by God, Allah or Buda themself. Only people on dusty sun bleached
streets were drunk locals, mainly indigenous people, knocking on our car
demanding money. We drove past hundred empty opal stores (all of them offering
deals of a life time), dozens of derelict accommodation options and miniature surface
mines (size of plot is limited, so no big corporations here). It almost felt
like a tourist trap, but really not sure who gets there and actually stays
there. Guess, no need to explain any further, we filled up our petrol tank and
pressed on towards next town. Nothing can be as bad as this! Or so we thought…
Our accommodation for the night was Kulgera Roadhouse. You
see, rest stops in Australian outback are called roadhouses. Usually a petrol
station selling precious liquid at extortionate prices and a rusty old motel.
Occasionally a small shop. And if you are really lucky a beer tap. This one was
all that, but with loads of charm. It was a no brainer – place to kip. It even
had a pool! And best pub in the outback according to the owner. And this time,
we wholeheartedly agree. Actually, probably best pub in Oz. This being proper
outback the bar was totally empty. Heaps of charm and character thou. So, we
decided to hit the shower and then hit the beer. And this is when this lovely
outback tale turns to horror movie. As you can guess, one of us had a pretty
disturbing experience in the shower. After good inspection of the premises some
relaxing time under the stream of warm water with closed eyes was just what the
doctor ordered. Until the eyes were opened and screams echoed in the Great
Outback. Spider the size of fist was slowly crawling up the right leg. Guess
who it was? Well, only thing we can say is that she was properly shaken. Definitely
time to hit the bar. Obviously, first question to the barmen was if there are
any snakes around. With complete astonishment in his eyes (for this kind of
question to be asked) he said not to many this year. This did not improve the
fragile status of mind (Caroline, Ewart, remember Kruger again?). Short visit
to the loo that boasted sign “No light, closed lid, no surprises” clenched the
deal. Time to freak out. This is the reason you will not be seeing one of the
best photos. This pub actually boasted with number of local snakes preserved in
jars. With antidotes next to them!!! Dejan decided that in the best interest of
everyone present it would be good idea to keep this find to himself until we
were far away. Such a smart decision…
Early next morning we then went to Uluru and Kata Tjuta. And
this is where the scenery turned to stunning. Red earth, blue skies, occasional
tree. What we hoped for. Just inhospitable, dangerous and breathtakingly
beautiful. And then Uluru itself. Big red rock in the middle of nothing. It is
much bigger and more impressive then on the photos. Close to it is another rock
formation Kata Tjuta. Possibly not as majestic, but at least as stunning. And
we haven’t even mentioned The Imposter! Just before Uluru you will see first
grand mountain and assume this is the real thing. But hold, it is not. This is
actually Mount Conner. Very unlucky it is so close to the more famous spot as
it deserves a lot of attention. Guess what we did: took dozens of pictures that
we then had to delete afterwards of course… So, we did what the tourist do:
visited the center, went for a ranger walk, and have I mentioned the sunrise
and sunset? Sunrise was probably more special (when you wake up in the middle
of the night it better well be!). Judgement could be influenced by lack of
coffee and obvious brain inactivity at that time as well. But in our case we
had a special view – a rainbow. Yes, we know what you are thinking – this is
desert and for rainbow you need rain, they must be in the heat too much. Wrong,
we had rain at Uluru! Obviously, our weather story continues… We definitely learned more about the
indigenous people here. They lived in the same way for thirty thousand years
before white people came!
After Uluru it was time for a bit of R&R in Alice
Springs. Nothing to write home about this town except the wonderful experience
of feeding wallabies. Local rock wallabies descend from the local hill every
evening and expect to be hand fed and caressed. Such a great experience!
Night in a hotel did the trick and we were on the road
again. All the way to Townsville there was nothing to tell you about. We
continued our usual 2 hours on 2 hours off driving routine. And passed one road
train after another… If you are wondering what that is, it is a colossal truck
with up to four trailers. A proper monster to pass in the dark!
And sun and hot air almost all the way to Townsville. Yes,
we said almost. Close to the east coast started raining. And we mean raining
heavily! Quick check with the locals and we found out we were catching a tail
of a cyclone Oswald. This area had a massive rainfall – some were even saying
biggest in the last one hundred years! Hmmmm… typhoon, heat wave, cyclone… it
can’t be us, right?
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