Tuesday, January 22, 2013

Melbourne


Major highway between Sydney and Melbourne was closed most of the time due to bush fires. But we managed to go through on one day it was open. Road was pretty empty. We could see torched areas and on one section we could smell the smoke as well. Talking of bush-fires apparently we made it in the worst heat wave in the last 40 years. And this is after typhoon in Palau after 50 years. What is next? Volcano eruption in New Zealand?

Anyway, back to vino. We passed through Rutherglen and Milawa. First one famous for bold reds and fortified vines, second dubbed as a gourmet region. Reds were actually pretty good. We tried a new grape – Durif and liked it. Not loved it, but liked it. Fortifieds were nice. They even call them port here, which is probably not very legal. Interesting, Australians not sticking to rules? Milawa had some nice cheeses and local vines, but not sure if we see it as a gourmet place. So, we figured we should cut this short and make a detour to only high mountains in Australia to see the only ski Area on the continent. Guy from the guidebook who said these were Australian Alps hasn’t obviously ever seen the real thing. No magnificent vistas at all. So, we turned back to another vine region known for best bubblies. Needless to say Nives’ mood had lifted instantaneously. So, Yarra valley. Nice scenery, decent bubblies. Similar to Slovenian or Italian ones. No comparison with real stuff thou for Nives – still swears by proper champagne. And again, we noticed that winemakers here call their sparkly wine champagne if it is made with traditional method. French are probably preparing protests as we write.

Best gem of the area was the chocolate factory on route to Melbourne. Absolute best chocolate ice-cream ever. Yum!
Melbourne. Felt a lot like home. Bit warmer than Dublin (not by much thou) and with brutal sun (that you had to avoid at all cost), but similarities were there. Relatively low, mainly green suburbs to live in and friendlier people (not comparing to Irish! Just on Australian level). And with great coffee culture. What we liked was the mix: European, Middle-eastern, Asian… all together. Neither as good as the real deal in our opinion, but all together was a treat. What we missed was any Australian native scenery. Aboriginal museum was closed for weekend (while we were there). It is almost as time began with English in every-day Australia and we feel this is wrong. Reminded us a lot of America that way.

So, we strolled the streets and enjoyed the buzz. Even went for a market and cooked a proper feast: oysters, barramundi, Tasmanian salmon, beef, spring lamb and kangaroo. With copious quantities of wine – we had to clear the cellar before heading into best wine region in Australia – Barossa valley. Meal to remember…
As luck would have it we happened to be in Melbourne during Australian Open. Obviously, this is due to meticulous planning (roysh) and not a chance. Anyway, we saw few matches and really enjoyed the experience.

And it was time to leave. For a scenic drive this time. Yes, we are talking about Great Ocean drive and 12 Apostles. Beautiful postcard scenery – eroded cliffs between the sand beaches and blue ocean. Huge waves (probably the biggest we have ever seen) were softly rolling on the horizon, until they broke on the coast with mighty thunder. If only there were no be aware of snakes signs (to put it mildly Nives was freaked out) and flies that were a nuisance on a new level.

And right after the drive we went to the Tower Hill Wildlife Reserve as well. Goal was to see koalas in their natural habitat. Nives was on the mission. Dejan was on a verge of desperation (Caroline, Ewart – remember Kruger?). But believe it or not, we saw them. Yes, that would be correct – them. Not one but two! Downright cute. They were sleeping (apparently this is the most time consuming activity in a life of your average koala) huddled between the branches on eucalyptus trees. We also saw ostriches – loads, even young chicks. No pictures taken thou. Seemed not really Australian thing. Until we got back to the car and read that these birds were no ostriches, but emus, native Australian birds. Felt very proud of ourselves, indeed we did. Duh! Armed with good luck we pressed on – goal was Adelaide and then Barossa. And to our astonishment we saw loads of kangaroos next to the road close to sunset times. What a beautiful creatures. There was even a small pup hiding in his mum’s pouch. So sweet! What a day…

Some more pictures here.

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