Wednesday, March 27, 2013

NZ south island - Otago and Southland


And here we were, self-proclaimed adrenaline capital of the world - Queenstown. Bungee fanatics, paragliding gurus and jet boat aficionados have been expected (testosterone levels in the air were reaching self-igniting limits for sure), but what we didn’t expect was a cute little town. Yes, it is touristic and dolled up, but after definite lack of any nice human settlement in New Zealand this was a gift from heavens. For the record, we have stopped comparing down under towns to romantic old (that actually means more than couple a hundred years) places in Europe. Set in beautiful location surrounded by crystal clear lakes and rivers, deep gorges, mountains and vineyards. Even Nives had to agree that this is a nice place (some Pinot Noir arm twisting was involved). But the biggest surprise was once we actually checked into a motel and walked down to town centre. Bars, pubs, restaurants on every corner. In unison we agreed to push out a ferry date to north island for a couple of days and extend our stay here.

We also discovered that New Zealanders are world experts in selling (we are sure big US corporations are having team building and learning selling seminars here). Everything you see is best and greatest in the world. And when we say anything we mean it – these guys are on the next level. Every view is scenic, every place a national park and every activity severely overpriced for any rational being. Anything and everything is around 120-150NZD, which we felt was about 100% more than it should have been. But hordes of Asian tourists are coming and are willing to paying for it. So, in the end, fair play to the Kiwis. Milk it if you can. So, we didn’t do most of hundreds of things on offer (and it was beyond us what was on the offer and what people were paying for!) with the exception of jet boating. We skipped the best known company, which is offering a ride for about 80EUR for 15 minutes (and we thought Oz was bad!) and went for the other guys on the block. Same dosh, but lasts an hour. Good decision it was too – the boat ride was fantastic at 85km/h speeds at times over 10cm deep water.

Some of the NZ best red wines (please, bear in mind we are thinking locally now and are not comparing to our favourite French wines here!) are just a 30min drive away and yes, you have guessed correct, we made a day out of it. Just around the corner of Queenstown is central Otago, which is technically a desert. And it would still be, if not for the first class irrigation system. Even vineyards are watered – a big no-no in traditional European vineyards (can already hear some French farmer crying out in despair). We visited the southernmost vineyards in the world (Blackridge) and also the maker of the winner of “best wine of NZ” award (bannock brac).

Not to spoil the sunny weather (reported as one of the biggest droughts in history of NZ) we headed out to one of the tourist heavyweights of NZ (and the world, surely partly due to unbelievable and efficient NZ tourist marketing tactics) – Milford sound. It is actually a fiord not a sound, on the west coast and accessible by one way road the is a highlight in itself. Do we need to say it is sold as the best experience in life, most beautiful fiord in the world with the most breath-taking road to it? Well, it was really beautiful for sure, but we would possibly restrain from any ‘best in the world’ remarks. Road to it was highly enjoyable and absolutely worth the trouble. In our opinion, definitely one of the most spectacular in New Zealand. Sound itself is home to some of the highest sea cliffs in the world (Mitre peak at 1692m is one of them – left peak on the above picture) and some spectacular scenery. It is surrounded by high cliffs from both sides with narrow entrance – which made Capitan Cook miss it completely on his survey of NZ. Can’t miss it these days with hordes of tourists neatly packed on number of pleasure boats that go out in a row and all stop at the same stops and enjoy the same views. That are breath-taking for sure. Couple of hours on the boat passed way too fast and it was time to drive the scenic route back inland again. Now last but DEFINITELY not least – whole experience was severely diminished by your best buddies in Milford – sand flies. This is definitely a world capital (haven’t seen that advertised thou) of those little annoying blood-suckers. We were ecstatic we decided not to spend a night here!

We ploughed on further down south towards the most southern point of our journey – Bluff. It is a town on south of NZ, which is the furthermost point away from home (its 18000km to London from here). Bluff is definitely not a place to write home about – one of the ugliest harbours we ever saw. It’s all north from here thou, back into the warmer climate and boy are we looking forward to it. Its bloody freezing down here! Probably not in terms of winter in Europe this year, but for the record we are a wee bit spoiled at the moment. On the way here we discovered that Bluff is also a home to world famous (can it be any other way in New Zealand?) Bluff oysters. We have not heard of them before, but were definitely willing to try. And so we did. They were excellent – delicious with the taste of the sea. We were definitely ready for our seconds and thirds, until we were told they are wild oysters. This definitely spoiled the experience, but the final blow was a discovery of how they are harvested – by dragging the nets on the bottom of the sea. Absolutely horrified that something like this can be happening in civilized world (hey, we are avoiding Chinese restaurants for shark fin soup!) we cancelled our order and left Bluff with bad taste in our mouths.

Driving thru the Catlins costal road and past Dunedin and Omaru on south east coast, we came across a lot of scenery we are used from Ireland, but definitely not as nearly as beautiful or spectacular. Plenty of wild life thou with seals and penguins galore.  If anything, wild life is something to be enjoyed here. With no pretty towns around (Dunedin was a huge disappointment, especially for Nives) we headed back towards west coast and the glaciers.

By this stage, we were ready for remoteness and wilderness. Or so we thought. This place was something else. Kilometre after kilometre of nothing really. And that includes mobile signal! Just for the record, we are not talking 3G here, but your regular 2G one. Absolutely bewildered that this actually can be happening in first world country we arrived to Fox Glacier township. This is also concept that was probably invented here. Means few houses, hotel and general store most of the time, and tourist traps galore. Mobile signal included. But hey, we are at one of the lowest glaciers in the world here! So, we did a fill tourist shebang – walked to both Fox and Franz Joseph and topped it all with a helicopter ride. And that was amazing! Views of glacier blue ice, crevasses and ravines was just amazing. Theory of relativity was definitely proven during the 20min flight – felt like 60 seconds! We opted to miss out on ‘exhilarating experience’ (as sold by tourist operators) of helicopter landing on a mountain (not a glacier!) and standing in a real snow for extra 100 NZD (you would be amazed how many people are actually going for this!). Considering we come from ski resort that hosts World Ski Cup race and host of the Winter Olympic Games and have moved to Ireland to avoid snow in the winter was probably a reasonable choice. All in all, glaciers were spectacular – silent (when they are not breaking off J) reminder of ancient times. Definitely something that should not be missed here.

Some more pictures here.

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